Family Croatia Sailing Holiday

The moment we stepped aboard Whistler in Seget Marina, I knew Tom had nailed it. The kids fought over the larger aft of two aft cabins, while Mark and I marvelled at the yacht's clever layout. This wasn't our cramped Jeanneau from the last flotilla; this was a proper family sailing machine.

Tom's advice proved worth its weight in gold. 'Forget what Google tells you,' he'd said. 'The afternoon maestral builds from the northwest through the afternoon, and dies around dusk. It’s often good for an afternoon sail, but can be strong so plan accordingly, and if you see loads of cloud build-up, tuck into an anchorage quickly.' Classic broker wisdom that you simply can't take for granted.

Our first destination was Šolta's Stomorska Bay—what Tom called Croatia's best-kept secret. The 12-nautical-mile beam reach from Split gave us perfect conditions to shake off the dockside rustiness. The kids took turns on the helm while the Adriatic's impossible blue stretched endlessly ahead.

Stomorska delivered exactly as promised. A horseshoe bay so protected it felt like a Croatian lake, with crystal-clear water that had 14-year-old Emma snorkeling as soon as we'd set the anchor. The local konoba served langoustines so fresh they were still moving, while Jack declared it 'better than Pizza Express'. High praise indeed from an 8-year-old!

Hvar Town's approach from the sea never gets old, even on your dozenth visit to Croatian waters. The 13th-century walls rise straight from turquoise water like something from a pirate movie, while superyachts worth more than our house bob casually on moorings.

But here's where Tom's local knowledge proved invaluable. Instead of the obvious town quay - expensive and rolly - he'd marked a spot called Planikovac on nearby Pakleni Islands. 'Trust me,' his notes read, 'the kids will think they've found paradise, and you'll actually sleep.'

He wasn't wrong. Planikovac’s lagoon-like anchorage offered perfect swimming, while the beach club provided just enough civilization to keep everyone happy. The kids discovered paddleboarding and I managed to read three chapters without anyone asking 'Are we there yet?'.

We could’ve stayed here all week!

The evening water taxi to Hvar Town was genius logistics. A ten-minute blast each way, the kids experienced proper nightlife (gelato and people-watching), while Mark and I enjoyed wine that actually complemented the seafood instead of fighting it.

The 38-mile passage from Hvar to Korčula tested our sailing skills properly for the first time. Morning's light northeasterly built to Force 4 by afternoon, giving Whistler the chance to show her sailing pedigree. The Hanse's balanced helm and responsive handling made even the gusty conditions manageable - crucial when you're managing nervous kids.

Korčula Old Town emerged from the haze like a medieval movie set. The kids were convinced we'd sailed into Game of Thrones (technically filmed in Dubrovnik, but close enough for 11-year-old geography). Tom recommended Lumbarda, and the sandy beaches proved as rare as gold in Croatia's largely rocky coastline.

But the real magic happened at dinner in a family-run konoba tucked behind the town walls. No English menu, no tourist prices, just the owner's wife explaining each dish in patient broken English while our kids discovered that 'real' Croatian food bore no resemblance to their UK holiday experiences. Sometimes the best sailing memories happen on dry land.

Our Vis Island detour exemplified why experienced brokers beat algorithms every time. Tom's sailing notes mentioned a protected bay called Stiniva, accessible only by sea and completely unmarked on standard charter briefings.

The narrow inlet required careful piloting, but the reward was a swim or paddle to a hidden beach that felt genuinely undiscovered.

The kids still talk about that afternoon. Swimming in water so clear you could count pebbles at 15 feet, scrambling over rocks that hadn't seen tourist feet, feeling like proper explorers rather than tourists following prescribed routes.

Our penultimate night, in Milna’s sheltered bay, provided the perfect decompression.

The kids made friends on other boats and then went to bed early, exhausted from a week of swimming and adventure.

Mark and I, pleased to have got through without any family fights, shared a bottle of Plavac Mali and started plotting next year's charter.

Maybe we go south to Dubrovnik, or north around Pula?

Friday was very leisurely; we had a quiet breakfast in a waterfront cafe before setting off for a final swim stop at Necujam bay, another of Tom's top picks, where we were able to snorkel a shipwreck in the shallow waters near the anchorage. A remarkable family experience, spooky and accessible to us all.

Then is was time to hoist the sails one final time for the 11nm sail back to Trogir - we were blessed with a light NW breeze that had us doing 7 knots all the way.

After refuelling and a thorough return handover, we heading out for dinner in a nearby restuarant, before saying our goodbyes to Whistler the follwoing morning.

We'd done it - our first 'proper' bareboat family holiday, with no damage (to gelcoat or emotions) and plenty of wonderful memories made!